Wasabi Chi

Your introduction, on being seated at Wasabi Chi in South Norwalk, is likely to be a free offering of edamame, soy beans in their pods. Skillfully handled, these just pop into your mouth, setting the tone for owner/chef Doug Chi Nguyens healthy organic fare. This Japanese restaurants cuisine is more eclectic and innovative than that of more traditional Japanese eateries.

Wasabi Chi  chi signifies the spiritual power or energy of the universe  occupies an unusual semicircular space with cool, elegant d?cor. Confronting you as you open the door is a crescent-shaped, black pebbled bar  poinsettias filling its niches were a nice touch during the Christmas season. The restaurants high-ceilinged space is lit by Chinese paper lanterns, its lime-green painted walls accentuated by occasional touches of bamboo. There are some pleasant banquette-style window tables; all tables are laid with elegant napery and adorned with fresh flowers. Wait staff, garbed in black Oriental pantsuits, offer superb service under the able management of Lelo Arslanagic.

One may dine well at Wasabi Chi by mixing and matching appealing appetizers. I went with a friend in December and we found that the two appetizers we each ordered and shared made a very satisfactory and satisfying meal. Wasabi Small Plates are Japanese-style meze or tapas. Among such dishes I can vouch are delicious are Wasabi Calamari and Lobster Tempura. Tuna Millennium and Yellowtail Jalape?o are two of Chef Nguyens signature dishes. The chefs Omakase creations are fish dishes lightly seared that, along with sushi, occupy the lions share of the menu. But fear not, non-sushi lovers  you will still find plenty to delight you on Wasabis menu! Desserts are eclectic and change daily. I recommend Green Tea Mascarpone Cheesecake with mango topping or the Apple Purses filled with tart Granny Smith apples; there is also a rich flourless chocolate cake. A dessert sampler for $20 includes three of the day's desserts, beautifully presented on a white oblong dish. Chef Nguyen insists that food appeal to the eye as much as to the taste buds. The wine list displays four dozen labels, red and white, most of them domestic or Italian, ranging in price from $30 to $280 (this last for a Sassicaia); half a dozen wines are available by the glass at $8 to $12.

Wasabi Chi's smaller, cozier companion Wasabi, in Nyack, New York, was opened by Nguyen three years ago. Able to accommodate one hundred, Wasabi Chi is open for lunch Mondays through Fridays (noon2:30 p.m.) and for dinner Saturdays and Sundays (5-11 p.m. and 4-10 p.m., respectively). Call 286-0181 or visit www.wasabichi.com.