Napa & Company opened The Kitchen in November. This triple-threat establishment boasts, along with its restaurant, a gourmet market called The Pantry and a small, beautifully stocked wine store, The Wine Closet. All three are housed in the Courtyard Marriott at 75 Broad Street, Stamford, but are independent of the hotel. A family place, Napa is run by Stamfordians Charlie Morgan and Mary Shaffer, assisted by Kevin and Karen Shaffer. The Morgans formerly owned Telluride. Their redoubtable Chef Bill Taibe managed Relish in Norwalk  he has also cooked for the Grand and Zanghi  and he possesses a miraculous touch with meats and caramelized vegetables.

The Morgans designed and painted The Kitchen, which has 18-foot ceilings painted dark brown and tall windows. The wall behind the bar features a wine altar shaped like a ziggurat reaching almost to the ceiling; its wood partitions house upright bottles. A flanking wall features bottles that rest horizontally on racks (for storage); another rack is thrust into the window behind a table. You may sit at tables at the bar, cramping the bartenders style a little. Floors are of bare polished wood and dark wood tables are bare of linen except for napkins, but are decorated with flowers. Soft music plays in the background and a plasma TV is tuned to the Food Channel. The noise level is pretty high, the overall effect somewhat distracting. This lively nighttime venue might not be the best choice for a serious conversation should you wish to focus on your dining companion(s), romantically or otherwise. For summer it is planned to extend the restaurant outdoors and to display al fresco food from The Pantry and wines from The Wine Closet.

Cuisine is eclectic American with Mediterranean influences. The most experimental and exciting of these new restaurants, Napa is also the most expensive, even soups being in the double digits. Food is paired with wines that are choice but reasonable, however. Small Plates of fascinating diversity typically range from $11 to $18. We sampled four, the standout being Grilled Flatbread with White Shrimp. You may also choose from 20 artisanal cheeses from California, England, France, Italy, Portugal and Spain, served with Cerbones delicious crusty bread. (Three cheeses may be sampled for $11, six for $18.) Six to eight Big Plates are offered each evening at $25 to $39 per dish. We saw Long Island Duck cooked in honey and thyme; Roasted Berkshire Pork two ways, with parsnip pur?e, russet apples and cider jus; and Roasted Pheasant stuffed with sourdough and served with mushrooms, peas and artichokes in Parmesan broth. (Price range: $25 to $39.) Napas sole concession to the prix fixe is its Chefs Tasting Dinner, a five-course tasting menu costing $85 without, $115 with wine. The chefs table is set for 12 in the heart of The Pantry; it may be reserved for a group or shared by duos or trios. Napa also offers catering.

Kudos to Mary Schaffer for Napas brilliantly researched wine list that includes superb bottles from Alsace, Argentina, Austria, Australia, California, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal and South Africa, competitively priced at $19 to $250 per bottle. Most wines by the glass cost $6$12, and bottles may also be purchased from The Wine Closet.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are offered, with reservations recommended for weekend dinners. Hours are Mondays through Fridays, 6:30-10:00 a.m. for breakfast; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch and 5:30-10:00 p.m. for dinner (Mon.-Sun.), with Sunday brunch served from 11:30 a.m.until 4:00 p.m. Call 353-3319 or visit www.napaandcompany.com.