Why would a chef who has successfully run a small restaurant for decades want to open another four times the size, offering four meals a day, seven days a week? Warm and engaging Chef Pietro Scotti offers a simple answer to the conundrum without revealing how he manages this dual feat. Owner for 20 years of tiny, prestigious Da Pietro's Restaurant, as well as the new Zest Cafe and Restaurant (at 36 Riverside Avenue and 8 Church Lane, Westport, respectively), Scotti revealed that his two small children inspired him. Discovering a dearth of hometown restaurants where wife Janine and his small son and daughter could dine en famille, he decided to do Westporters a favor by opening Zest in June 2006. Seating 75, this restaurant offers breakfast, lunch, tea, and dinner on a walk-in basis during the week. Diners are advised, however, to call 226-9378 to reserve for Grand Afternoon Tea any day or for dinner on weekends.

Zest occupies a cellar with a paradoxically light and airy ambience. This may be partly due to Barbara B. Lawlesss appealing mural. (Art on the walls is for sale.) The Scottis took a hand in their restaurants design, which was realized by Jean Baptiste Ducruet of Atmosphere Design, LLC.

Breakfast includes cereals with or without fruit; different kinds of omelets and eggs every style, including Benedict; blintzes, crepes, waffles and French toast; all are accompanied by juices, coffee or tea. Breakfast costs from $4.95 to $14, without tip. Lunch embraces seasonal soups ($6.95 each); a half-dozen appetizers ($6.95$8.95); wraps, American sandwiches, panini and burgers ($7.95-$10.95), as well as an array of composed salads ($9.95$12.95). Ten different entr?es daily are priced from $9.95 to $15.95, including Raie au Citron or Capers; Steamed Mussels Parisian; Braised Sea Scallops; Steak Frite; and Light Eggplant Parmigiano. Desserts (fruit tarts, tiramisu, bread pudding) are $8.95 each. Grand Afternoon Tea offers four kinds of tea sandwiches and as many mini-pastries, along with a pot of tea, for $16.95, but one may also enjoy tea with scones and either shortbread or biscotti for $4.95, and other lighter fare. Zest also handles catering.

Chef Pietro describes the dinner menu as global: it includes American, French, Italian and Asian fusion dishes. To accompany your meal there are 90 wines from France, Alsace, Italy, California, the Argentine, Australia and New Zealand, of which over a dozen reds and whites are available at $7$12 per glass. Among appetizers on offer are Calamari Fritti and Tuna Tartare. Sample entr?es include fine seafood dishes such as Proven?al Osso Buco, made of monkfish, in addition to the more familiar terrestrial version, which is made Piemontese style; roast chicken or spring lamb; Cannelloni alla Sorrentina in a light creamy tomato sauce; and Pietros Priceless Meatballs (price range: $16.95$23.95). Mondays through Thursdays, from 5:00 to 6:30 p.m.; family-style, three-course prix-fixe dinners are offered at $19.95; appealing dishes for kids are priced low. Though well managed, service at Zest could be improved.